![]() After the plaster is completely dry, the walls are ready to be painted. A smooth, white finish coat goes on last. In three coat plastering it is standard to apply a second layer in the same fashion, leaving about 1⁄ 2 inch (13 mm) of rough, sandy plaster (called a brown coat or browning (UK)). When the wall is fully covered, the vertical lath "guides" are removed, and their "slots" are filled in, leaving a fairly uniform undercoat. A helper feeds new plaster onto the board, as the plaster is applied in quantity. The applier drags the board upward over the wall, forcing the plaster into the gaps between the lath and leaving a layer on the front the depth of the temporary guides, typically about 1⁄ 4 inch (6.4 mm). Lime or gypsum plaster is then applied, typically using a wooden board as the application tool. Temporary lath guides are then placed vertically to the wall, usually at the studs. As Americans and Canadians expanded west, saw mills were not always available to create neatly planed boards and the first crop of buildings in any new western or northern settlement would be put up with split beam lath. Splitting the timber along its grain greatly improved the laths' strength and durability. and Canada well into the second half of the 19th century. Early American examples featured split beam construction, as did examples put up in rural areas of the U.S. ![]() In Canada and the United States the laths were generally sawn, but in the United Kingdom and its colonies, riven or split hardwood laths of random lengths and sizes were often used. Metal lath is available in 27-inch (69 cm) by 8-foot (240 cm) sheets. Each horizontal course of lath is spaced about 3⁄ 8 inch (9.5 mm) away from its neighboring courses. Wood lath is typically about one inch (2.5 cm) wide by four feet (1.2 m) long by 1⁄ 4 inch (6 mm) thick. Each wall frame is covered in lath, tacked at the studs. These are narrow strips of wood, extruded metal, or split boards, nailed horizontally across the wall studs or ceiling joists. The wall or ceiling finishing process begins with wood or metal laths. ( March 2012) ( Learn how and when to remove this template message) Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Please help improve this section by adding citations to reliable sources. This whole building was made without a piece of lumber most likely.This section does not cite any sources. The door frames appear to be made of metal - no studs above them. There are concrete ceilinns and concrete floors and then basically all the walls are non loadbearing, with concrete pillars probably hidden deep inside somewhere.Ģ. It's an apartment building built in the late fifties early 60s. In answer to a couple of recurrent questions:ġ. This is a fabulous idea, as I do have access to both sides. Also thank you everyone for your super fast, varies responses. That way you are less likely to crack the plaster when you tighten the nuts. Even better, slip the bolts through a piece of EMT or other tubing that's as long as the wall is thick, and then put some big fender washers under the head and nut. Alternatively, if you have access to both sides of the wall, and a long enough drill bit, mount the board with bolts that go all the way through the wall. Toggles with the longest, widest wings you can find. That will, locally, turn the wall into an impromptu SIP. If the walls are as unsupported as you claim, you can make them rigid in the area where you're attaching things by pumping some expanding urethane foam insulation into the cavity. Wall cabinets are sometimes installed this way because it's so easily undone or adjusted. This system allows you to easily take down the hangboard and reconsider your wall mount system if necessary. Then simply hook one bevelled strip over the other. Mount the other on the back of the plywood that your hangboard is on, with the bevel down and its toe outward. If you've got access to a saw, you could also rip a couple of strips of wood or plywood or something with a 10 or 15 degree bevel along one edge, and mount one strip on the wall with the bevel up and its toe outward. ![]()
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